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Eco Fashion Week Australia 2017



BEhind useless shape





INSPIRED BY ABORIGINAL CULTURE:

THE DREAMTIME STORY AND THE SONGLINES



このコレクションのテーマは、「無用の美 - 無用な造形に隠された美学」です。​
裁つ。組む。留める。ただそれだけの行為の連続で衣服を組み上げます。パターンメイキングを施された洋服とは違い、いたるところに身体とのギャップ、すなわち無駄が生じます。ところが、服作りにおいて生じる無駄はありません。無用な造形には、無用なりの美学(成り立ち)があるはずです。服の作り方を根本から見直すことで、身体と衣服との新たな関係性を考える第一歩にしたいと考えています。​


With this collection, I focused on the idea of "the aesthetic beauty hidden in useless shape."

Cut. Assemble. Fasten. Just by repeating this series of actions, clothes take shape. Unlike clothing that is made with patterns, you will find gaps between the cloth and the body; in other words, there is a void, or waste in this sense. However, there is no waste accumulated in the making of the clothing. In shaping waste, there is the beauty of nothing left behind. By fundamentally reviewing how to make clothes, I would like to suggest new relationships between clothing and the body.



// Photograph: Harry Leonard



// PHOTOGRAPH: HARRY LEONARD



ECOLOGICAL ASPECTs





布を組みあげるアイディアは、衣服を取り巻く二つの側面に着目して生まれました。
一つは、衣服の生分解プロセスの合理化です。植物や動物由来の繊維だけで生産すれば、全てを自然に還すことができます。アイディアを深化させる過程で、オーストラリア先住民であるアボリジニの自然観に大きな影響を受けました。

二つ目は、パターンメイキングで発生する廃棄布の削減です。人体に合わせた立体裁断を行う場合、布地の無駄が多く出ます。そこで、立体裁断をせず、身体上に布のパーツを組み上げる方法を検討しました。布地に生じた無駄は、衣服を組むための必要な要素であると同時に、装飾でもあります。


This idea is derived from two issues surrounding garments and design today.
Firstly, there is the importance of biodegradable clothing. If you produce clothes only from the fibers of plants or animals, you can return everything to nature. I was influenced by the Aboriginal culture when trying to expand my ideas.
Secondly, we can reduce the amount of wasted cloth that is commonly generated in traditional pattern making. When performing 3D cutting on cloth to fit the human body, there is a lot of waste leftover. Therefore, I sought a way to make clothes without using pattern making. For example, I thought about utilizing the wasted fabric as a design element in my "braiding" technique.​



Moon Cave (York) :
The Mapping of the "Song-line".



Moon Cave (York) : The mapping of the "song-line" with a model wearing my "Braiding-line" clothes made of biodegradable material.



Behind The Scenes of editorial shooting



Djoondalup : This place holds the story of Djunda the Charnock woman, a spirit woman who collected spirit children, placing them in her strands of long white hair.



The Hair of Djunda the Charnock Woman



Inspired by Aboriginal Culture



狩猟採集社会を営むアボリジニは、土地とそこに生きる全ての動植物、そして景観との一体感(oneness)を思想の核としています。土地や先祖との見えない繋がりを実感させるため、彼らは天地創造の物語を伝承し、土地と一体化する儀式を行ってきました。こういった儀式は、現代社会では無駄なものに見えるかもしれません。しかし、人間と自然をつなぐ物語を伝承する数多の儀式は壮大な表現であり、世界の理を身体化する力を持っています。


私は、民族が創り出すイニシエーションに美の根源を感じます。文学や哲学など無駄だと言う人がいます。実用的であることが全ての社会では、その通りかもしれません。しかし、美は実用的な側面だけでは生じません。


エコロジーも、全てが実用的で合理的であれば良いとは考えません。私はエコの取組を判断する際に、「そこに美学があるのか」を基準に判断したいと考えています。一見エコに見えなくとも、エコに対する思想を持ち、ビジョンを実現しようとしている人々を尊敬します。


私の提案する衣服は、実用的ではないかもしれません。
しかし、これらのデザインには、私なりのエコに対する表明、すなわち「無用の美」の考え方を反映したつもりです。



As their core belief, the Aborigines feel a sense of oneness with the land, the flora and fauna that thrive there, as well as the scenery. In order to really feel the invisible bond that they have with their land and ancestors, the Aborigines have handed down the story of the Creation and performed rituals that express oneness with the land. These rituals may seem useless to modern society. However, many of these rituals are great expressions of stories of the connection between man and nature, and hold the power of embodiment of the world’s logic.


I can feel the source of beauty from the initiation made by the ethnic group. Some claim that things such as literature and philosophy are useless. This may be true for societies that are engulfed in pragmatism. However, beauty does not only occur on a practical side.


We cannot just think that something is ecological as long as it is practical and economical. How I judge if something is ecological is to first ask myself “Does it have the aesthetics?” I respect those who think ecologically and are working to actualize their visions, even though their products may not look ecological at first glance.


My fashion line may not be practical.

However, it was designed ecologically in my own way. In other words, my intention was to reflect the idea of ‘Behind Useless Shape.’



The Songlines: The Waugal & The Moon Cave
[Drawing Poetry], York, Western Australia



Film & Edit: STUDIO MENBRANE | HIROAKI TANAKA

Thanks to: Donna Nelson, William Hayward, Kristal Hilaire(model), Chev Hilaire, Harry Leonard(photographer), Zuhal Kuvan-Miles and her family.



THE STORY OF MY SHOW AT EFWA2017



BEHIND USELESS SHAPE





私はこのファッションショーにおいて、人間の生と死の循環と、衣服の生と死の循環とを重ね合わせています。アボリジニ社会における人間の死は、精霊となって土に還ることを意味しています。私のデザインした衣服も「土に還る衣服」です。同時に、単なる衣服としてその生を終えるのではなく、「無用な造形に隠された美学」を体現して消えていきます。人間の生きる意味もまた、無用とみなされる営みに隠されているのかもしれません。このコレクションでは、衣服を通して生命が自然の只中に発生し消滅するまでの生成変化のプロセスを表現しています。


My fashion show is about the overlapping of the life and death cycle of both humans and clothing. To the Aboriginal society, humans turn into spirits that return to the earth when they die. The clothing I design are similar to humans as they are “clothes that return to the earth”. At the same time, they do not serve the single purpose of just being clothes. They depart by leaving behind the aesthetics of ‘Useless Beauty’. This collection expresses the transformation process of life in nature from existence to disappearance through clothes.


// Exhibition: ECO FASHION WEEK AUSTRALIA 2017



DREAMTIME STORY
ABORIGINAL PERFORMANCE





Performer:

Derek Nannup Jnr, ​Derek Nannup, William Hayward.


Videography / Editing: Daniel Ade, Daniel Ade Film




behind useless shape
runway show





Thanks to: All performers, Donna Nelson and her friends, William Hayward, Dumbartung Aboriginal Corporation, Zuhal Kuvan-Miles and her family.

Videography / Editing: Daniel Ade, Daniel Ade Film



BEGINNING - "The Conception Site"



序盤のテーマは「conception site(始まりの場所)」です。

ここでは天地創造による衣類の編成を表現しています。リサイクル素材や、再生可能化学材料による布地を、真鍮のファスニングジュエリーで留める衣服を展開しています。


This is where I have expressed clothing formation from the Creation period. What you can see on display are clothing made from post-consumer materials and fabrics made from renewable chemical materials that are fixed with brass fastening jewelry.


// Photograph: Simon Armstrong / Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



MIDDLE - "The Songlines"



中盤のテーマは「the songlines(ソングライン)」です。

アボリジニはトーテムと呼ばれる属性(例えば、ワラビーやカンガルーなど)を持ち、その守り手となります。全てのトーテムに先祖代々語り継がれる歌があります。かつて700以上の部族に分かれていたアボリジニは、地域によって言語や習慣も異なっていました。しかし、同じトーテムを持つものたちは、「歌」で繋がることができました。ここでは、布と布を結ぶだけで結合する衣服を展開しています。「結ぶ」というたった一つの行為が、布に形を与えます。オーストラリア大陸に描かれたソングラインのように、衣服の上にはノットラインが描かれています。


The Aborigines believe in totems (such as wallabies and kangaroos), and are protectors of it. According to the totems, there are songs that have been passed down for generations. There are over 700 different tribes that have different languages and customs depending on the region. However, those who share the same totems are connected through “songs”. And this part of the collection is where you can find clothing which are put together with just fabric alone. The fabric is given its shape by a single act of “joining”. Just like the paths of the songlines that are believed to exist in Australia, there are what I call “knotlines” displayed on my clothing as well.


// Quilt: Caohagan quilt

// Photograph: Simon Armstrong / Harry Leonard​



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



CLIMAX - "The Sky"



終盤のテーマは「The sky(精霊の空間)」です。

アボリジニは死者を2度埋葬します。1度目は居住地周辺に埋葬して肉体を土に還す「肉体の死」、2度目は聖地に骨を埋葬する「精神の死」です。2度目の埋葬で彼らは精霊となり、森羅万象に宿る先祖の一員となります。ここでは、完全に土に還る生分解性の素材だけを用いた衣服を展開します。日本の伝統技術である「組子」の技法にインスピレーションを得た、10mm厚のフェルトの組子シリーズです。


In the Aboriginal society, they perform two-stage burials. The first stage is where the flesh is buried near their habitat and returned to the land. The second stage is the spiritual death where the bones are buried in a sacred place. The dead turn into spirits in the second stage and join their ancestors who have already become one with the universe. In this part of the collection, you will find clothes made from biodegradable materials that can be completely broken down. I was inspired by a traditional Japanese technique, ‘Kumiko’, and have used 10mm thick felt to come up with the Kumiko series.


// Photograph: Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



FINALE - "The Eternal Dreaming"



最後は「Eternal Dreaming(永遠の夢見)」です。

アボリジニにとって先祖は決して過去の存在ではなく、今も森羅万象の中に宿っています。時間を線ではなく円鎖として認識する彼らは、天地創造の時代を現在に蘇らせる儀式を持ち、先祖の力を自然の中に知覚するのです。フィナーレを飾る作品は、アボリジニのドリームタイムストーリー「The Hair of Djunda」からインスピレーションを受けています。Djundaの白い髪の毛が大地を区切り、男性と女性のジェンダーを生み出す境界線となりました。Djundaはその髪の毛を残し、天の河へと帰ります。この境界線は天の河とも呼応した神聖な土地です。宇宙と大地をつなぐ、ドリームタイムを象徴する作品を先頭に、全ての作品が同じ空間に存在しています。


The Aborigines do not think of their ancestors as people who existed in the past. Instead, they think of them as part of the universe. They perceive the existence of multiple time dimensions, and continue to restore rituals and feeling the power of their ancestors from nature. My final piece is inspired by the Aboriginal dreamtime story, ‘The Hair of Djunda.’ Djunda’s white hair separated the land and formed a boundary between men and women. Djunda then left her white hair behind when she went back up to the Milky Way. This boundary, also referred to as the Milk Way, was to the Aborigines a sacred place. All my pieces exist in a single space, starting with the first piece symbolizing the Aboriginal belief, ‘Dreamtime,’ linking the universe and the earth.


// Photograph: Simon Armstrong / Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Harry Leonard



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



Photograph:
Simon Armstrong



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